Ramsay may be a fabulous talent scout and a great nurturer of young chefs but many of his lieutenants have long surpassed their master and his ruthless drive for worldwide domination risks alienating even more of his able pupils. Gordon the chef has been usurped by Ramsay the businessman and so young, talented chefs have moved elsewhere to serve their kitchen apprenticeships. 

The less prestigious restaurants in which Ramsay does have control over his menus are the ones that are overpriced and the food is distinctly average. These are the places where the infamous boil-in-the-bag coq-au-vin is served and the food is so standardised that most of it is prepared in a huge central kitchen in Clapham before being shipped off to each eatery. By the time they get to diners these dishes have a mark-up of around 500 per cent.

Despite ominous predictions, the restaurant industry has fared relatively well during the recession. However, customers increasingly want value for money and are more discerning about where they eat out. Uncertainty over the economy has meant the current average UK restaurant spend per head is just £16.02 and 39 per cent of diners are less likely to eat out now than they were six months ago. Customers don't consider it value for money to be served expensive food when the chef who puts his name to the restaurant never cooks in it, and the food isn't even prepared onsite. Marcus Wareing's view is unequivocal: "In today's world a chef is only going to be successful if he's in the kitchen. People want more than a name."