Alemanno says that of the 40,000 crimes carried out in Rome every year half are committed by non-Italians. Popular wisdom (and no longer only ranting taxi-drivers) has it that a hard core of unspecified “eastern Europeans” – including Bosnians, Serbians and Romanians as well as the Roma Gypsies – are responsible for most of the non-homegrown crime. Many live in squalid camps (there are about 85 around Rome alone) under railway arches and motorway flyovers or on the banks of the Tiber. They send their children not to school but out to steal, beg or play the accordion on the number 8 tram before passing round the hat. Current Italian wisdom has it that the Senegalese and Bangladeshis at least sell things people might want to buy – albeit fake Prada bags and fake Chanel sunglasses – and will take no for an answer. The Gypsies will just take your wallet.
Everyone has a tale of woe. Last year, Interpol contacted my husband after he was pickpocketed near Piazza Navona. Some villain had used his cards within half an hour to book into a five-star Rome hotel for the night (American Express), buy a £500 camcorder online (Visa) and order up a Chinese takeaway (MasterCard). Months later, a Romanian – possibly the original thief – was arrested on the Slovenian border, optimistically trying to re-enter Europe on an EU health card in the name of Fraser.
Their methods have changed little since the early 1990s when my wallet was snaffled by Roma girls in Florence, but their numbers have certainly swelled following the EU enlargements of 2004 and 2007.
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