As Libyans look west to Tunisia, which kicked off the Arab Spring, and east to Egypt, which also ejected its dictator but is stagnating under septuagenarian military rule, they take heart from the progress of their revolution. "Tunisia and Egypt have more problems than us," says Krekshi Mohyeddin, a legal translator. "They cut off the head of the regime but not the roots, which are still there. We've taken the whole system out." 

This may tilt towards complacency, but notwithstanding the numerous challenges that lie ahead, Libya still appears best placed of all Arab countries to weather the revolutionary storm and build a more stable state with foundations that are more or less democratic. Ekram al Huni, a Libyan friend from Benghazi days earlier this summer, has just returned to Tripoli to take the pulse. She is reassured by the rumbustious debate she has encountered.

"It's great to see it. Tripolines are saying to the NTC, ‘Who elected you?' They're questioning everything and it's really healthy. Things that have been suppressed can rise to the surface and people can express their opinions. There's more openness. It's healthy for the NTC to know they're being held accountable."

One criticism she makes, repeated by other Libyans, is the government's record on communicating plans and policies to the population. "The NTC is speaking effectively to international donors, humanitarian organisations and its international partners but not really to the people. Libyans aren't going to be pleased with that."