"Security isn't serious here," another foreign-educated Indian businessman points out. "If you don't look like a fisherman, you can go wherever you want." His wife, who helps run an upmarket design store not far from the Taj, explains to me that Western-style security systems don't work here. "If I tell the watchman to write down that I came in at 10 o'clock instead of 11, he will."

The Indians at the party are worried that the attacks will severely damage tourism and the economy. Martin isn't so sure. "People here have short memories. This year, there were bombs in Gujarat, Hyderabad, Jaipur and Bangalore. Has it stopped tourism in Jaipur or business in Bangalore? In Hyderabad, 60 people died and they found 19 bombs that didn't detonate. In Jaipur, 90 people were killed." He reflected for a minute. "Of course, they were all locals."

Martin's colleague was setting up a new business here. "I don't think he'll ever come back."

Saturday, November 29

This morning, TV declares once again that the Taj has been cleared and the last terrorist killed. This time it seems to be true. Just after dawn, commandos attacked the remaining terrorist or terrorists on the ground and first floors - areas which troops had been in yesterday and are now windowless and blackened - and the news includes footage of a body falling or being pushed out of a first-floor window. The papers show gruesome pictures of murdered restaurant guests at the Oberoi and a portrait of a handsome NSG commando killed at the Taj last night. "Braveheart Dies In Rescue Op" runs the headline.

I walk to the Taj through the still relatively quiet streets. Their elegance is so run-down it could be Cuba without the excuse of socialism for crumbling walls and peeled paint. A woman carries a mineral water bottle perfectly balanced on her head. A navy officer in white shirt and shorts sails by on a bicycle.