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How it has survived is by bucking the trend. In 2002 Cleveland took on a 40-year-old music director when other orchestras wouldn’t look at a conductor under 60. Franz Welser-Möst, with rocky London beginnings behind him, set about building symbiosis. He recently renewed his contract until 2022 and I have never seen this sensitive, fine-tuned musician happier anywhere on earth (last summer he quit overnight as music director of the Vienna Opera).

The secret, Franz believes, is pride. Musicians in the Cleveland Orchestra can be seen on stage a full hour before the concert begins, rehearsing tricky passages, showing the audience how much they care. The woodwind and brass principals are swagger players, big personalities. You would not want to catch a scolding from the concertmaster: William Preucil looks as if he runs a double marathon before breakfast yet his solos are sweet as day-old kittens. Like many top soloists, he studied with Joseph Gingold, a former Cleveland concertmaster. Tradition here runs as deep as in Vienna.

Where last year’s LAO convention in Seattle was entertained by a sexist rapper, Cleveland played three programmes without a trace of frivolity: a semi-staging of Richard Strauss’s rarely-seen opera Daphne, a pairing of Beethoven’s Pastoral and Strauss’s Domestic symphonies, and a Messiaen-Dvořák triple bill. In the pianissimo before the Pastoral finale, the strings played at a mere hint of a whisper, daringly confident of the audience’s motionless, coughless attention.

The hall helps: Severance Hall, built in 1931, has not just the finest acoustic in America but the most gorgeous art deco ambience, no cent spared of an iron-ore mogul’s generosity. Pride glows from every gold-leaf wall. The orchestra plays the hall like an extra instrument.

Rather than grooming social leaders for big donations, Cleveland asks them to meet young professionals who join its under-40s circle. You want to get ahead in Cleveland? Go to a concert. The orchestra has reinvented itself as a high-achieving social network. Its president, Gary Hanson, who retires this summer, has highlighted several routes out of the LAO gloom.

A 50-minute flight away, I tested by way of comparison the vaunted Chicago Symphony — with $32 million after two recent donations — in its updated hall. The music director, Riccardo Muti, was away and the orchestra did not look much at his stand-in, the Seattle conductor Ludovic Morlot. Several of the principals had taken the night off.

A new violin concerto by the British composer Anna Clyne was given a desultory premiere (soloist: Jennifer Koh); Beethoven’s Eroica never rose above the routine. Player pride — the way Cleveland principals seem to own the music — was sporadic and the refurbished hall gave a dulled response to the night’s best efforts. Chicago — population 2.7 million — shows just how brilliant Cleveland has been in rethinking the future of the orchestra.

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Larry Tyler
June 25th, 2015
8:06 PM
So...please help me to understand. Mr. Lebrecht, attending this recent League conference really likes the Cleveland Orchestra. He doesn’t much like Chicago or Seattle however and the accuracy of Mr. Lebrecht's seemingly random Chicago and Seattle bashing is contra-indicated by both Chicago's multiple decade commitment to robustly maintaining a culture of excellence among rank and file musicians and orchestral soloists alike and also by Seattle's recent qualitative ascendance as demonstrated by their six Grammy nominations and more directly, in their keynote concert at last year's League conference, which featured not rap, but quite beautiful performances of Ravel and Dutilleux. As for the dreaded "sexist""frivolity" that occurred when Sir Mix-a-lot appeared with Gabriel Prokofiev in a bonus event at the Seattle League conference, it was clearly a risky adventure set in a cultural time and space where all endeavors are measured through a race and social justice lens. Successfully barrier-breaking or culturally abhorrent, we each may choose, but this type of concert is not one that Mr. Lebrecht will encounter when he and Mr. Hanson sit down next to enjoy the terrific music making of the Cleveland Orchestra.

David Krakowski
June 25th, 2015
7:06 PM
Cleveland is a paradise for lovers of music. Aside from the Cleveland Orchestra the other gems include CityMusic Cleveland, apollo's Fire and NUMEROUS other local symphonic ensembles, chamber ensembles, small dance troups and a number of smaller scaled opera companies. The region supports all of these groups. Perhaps the wonderful variety of high end (Oberlin, Cleveland Institute of Music) and the local schools (University Settlement, Broadway School of Music, Neighborhood children's programs (El Sistema) by CityMusic and the Rainey Institute all help to contribute to the musicality of the city. Yes, Cleveland is the right size to maintain a quality life in a world fixated on quantity.

Hank Drake
June 25th, 2015
5:06 PM
Most people who go to Cleveland Orchestra concerts don't live in Cleveland proper. Cuyahoga County's poplation is 1.2 million, add the surrounding counties and it's up to 3.5 million. But Mr. Lebrrecht is right in that the foundational work of the Cleveland Orchestra has worked out well.

Joshua Smith
June 25th, 2015
2:06 PM
Interesting, but wrong on one of its main points: ""not one conductor, not one principal player was invited (or agreed) to address the heads of their industry." I'm the principal flute in Cleveland. i spoke at the conference's closing plenary session, along with Daniel Roumain (composer), David Gier, (conductor), Martha Gilmer (artistic administrator).... Maybe Noman was already in Chicago at that point.

Anonymous
June 25th, 2015
11:06 AM
Severance Hall with the finest acoustic in America? Where does that leave Symphony hall in Boston. That is the finest in the world; having had the opportunity to compare it to the Concertgebouw and the Grosser Musikvereinsaal, it isn't even close.

NYMike
June 25th, 2015
2:06 AM
While Severance Hall is certainly fine, it's not necessarily better than Boston's Symphony Hall or NY's Carnegie. Nor does the Philadelphia Orchestra take a backseat to the Cleveland Orchestra in pride. How else would Philly maintain its sheen while lagging behind six other US orchestras in wages and benefits since their faux bankruptcy?

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