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Carpe Vinum
March 2015

A further incitement to drink which is connected to our mortality is the galling thought (as Odes II.14 explains) of who will drink our carefully-cellared wine after we are gone, and also perhaps how it will be drunk—that poem ends by imagining a worthier ("dignior") heir who breaks open the cellar of the dead Postumus and floods the pavement with wine more glorious than that drunk at the feasts of the pontiffs ("pontificum potiore cenis"). The only way to guard against that miserable prospect is, of course, to leave no wine behind.

Is Horace then simply a cheery old soak? That there is more to his appreciation of wine than mere hedonism is suggested by poems in which a certain simple directness towards wine is associated with the quality of Roman-ness.

For instance, Odes I.20 begins by inviting Horace's patron Maecenas to join him in drinking cheap Sabine wine served in common tankards ("Vile potabis modicis Sabinum / cantharis"), but which is at least wine of his own making, sealed on a day of giddy triumph for Maecenas when he was acclaimed in the theatre. This short, enigmatic poem ends by contrasting the choice contents of Maecenas's cellar—Caecuban from Southern Latium and wine from the famous presses of Cales ("prelo . . . Caleno"), a town in Campania.

Might Horace not be whispering to his patron, rather in the manner of the slave in the chariot of a triumphing Roman general, that he should allow his current glory neither to make him forget his common humanity, nor to prevent him from enjoying rough but healthy Sabine home-brew?

To be too picky about wine, to crave unusual liquors, is for Horace to be un-Roman. The great ode on the fall of Cleopatra (I.37), that which begins "Nunc est bibendum", invokes wine not just as a way of celebrating victory, but also as a way of discriminating between national characters. Horace begins by inviting his fellow Romans to celebrate Augustus's success at Actium with drink and dancing—now is the time to sacrifice that fine Caecuban you have been keeping for a special day:

antehac nefas depromere Caecubum
cellis avitis, dum Capitolio
        regina dementis ruinas,
            funus et imperio parabat.

(Before today it would have been wrong to bring out our Caecuban from its ancient bins, while a demented queen was plotting to ruin the Capitol and destroy the empire.)

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