But while their leaders have betrayed freedom, ordinary Norwegians haven't yet been persuaded to be ashamed of their flag. Far from it. Every May 17, when they commemorate the signing of their 1814 Constitution, Oslo's streets are a blizzard of red, white, and blue. In a ritual dating back to 1870, tens of thousands of schoolchildren, many in traditional garb, march to the royal palace, each waving a flag and lowering it respectfully as they pass the king on his balcony.

Years ago, when I first came here, I was appalled by this spectacle of subservience: why should free people bring up their brats to be deferential to royalty? (I'm American.) Yet I've since come to see the Children's Parade as a welcome sign that in at least one corner of Western Europe, kids are being raised to love their country and appreciate their freedom. Recalling FDR's 1942 "Look to Norway" speech ("if there is anyone who doubts the democratic will to win…let him look to Norway"), I reflect that maybe, when push comes to shove, Norwegians won't give in.

This year, the May 17 traditions faced a challenge. In March, the Norwegian Immigrant Forum proposed that kids with foreign backgrounds be allowed to carry their ancestral homelands' flags in the Children's Parade. "We want to signal that Norway has become a multicultural society," explained the group's head, Athar Ali; other countries' flags, he said, would render the day "inclusive". In response, the official May 17 committee ruled that only Norwegian, Sami, and UN flags would be allowed – only to be overruled by Oslo mayor Fabian Stang, who declared all flags welcome.

A fierce debate ensued. Most Norwegians opposed Mayor Stang; elite types supported him – many arguing, perversely, that permitting other flags would aid integration. Noting that 35 percent of Oslo schoolchildren belong to ethnic minorities (the figure is actually higher), journalist Guri Hjeltnes said it would be a shame if they "couldn't leave their mark" on May 17 by waving foreign flags. She compared the committee's ruling to the ban on Norwegian flags during the Nazi occupation: "If you see or hear anyone on May 17 who hurls abuse at a child with another flag, another costume," she urged (as if the problems besetting Norway these days involved Norwegians attacking foreigners), "form a circle around the child and shout: 'hip hurrah!'"